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The Schiaparelli show traditionally opened the Paris Couture Fashion Week. The house’s creative director Daniel Roseberry called the collection “Icarus”. Although the story of Icarus, as we know, ends in tragedy, it speaks of the desire to take risks, to prove that you can surpass yourself.
“I wanted to challenge the idea that to be modern you have to be simple. My goal is to create clothes that are both traditional and contemporary.”
As I looked through the looks, I kept thinking, “Wow, how did they do that?” Some of the outfits, with their angular hip ridges, looked like futurist sculptures.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
The skirts were full not due to the crinoline, but due to the corset with a wavy peplum; the stunning geometry of the bustier made the dresses look like a bottle of perfume; and the lines of the deep neckline, running from the shoulders to the hips, gave the dresses the silhouette of Art Deco architecture.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
Due to the fact that the brand’s team developed a production technology that allows “the clothing parts to have an almost smooth, seamless, wave-like appearance of car bodies or airplane fuselages,” the outfits looked like real sculptures.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
I noticed a one-shoulder velvet dress with a wide flounce running the length of the dress made of vertical rows of ribbons that gently swayed as she walked; a silk tailcoat with folds resembling Schiaparelli’s surreal rib cage; and a gold column dress that looked as if it had been folded from a large sheet of metal.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
These garments were obviously handcrafted using the painstaking methods of old-school couture craftsmen. High fashion is at its best when it looks to the past and then turns it into something that has never been done before. Icarus or not, Roseberry has proven once again that he is in constant pursuit of perfection, and the brand’s success shows how much the house’s atelier has flourished under his leadership.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
Collection details.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
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