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The Saint Laurent Spring 2025 show took place at the Left Bank headquarters of the house on Rue de Bellechasse. The only structure was a semi-open area in the form of a golden oval suspended in mid-air, like a huge picture frame, under which the audience sat. The runway was painted a deep blue that magically appeared in the rain. Oh, that dreary Parisian weather!
The brand’s creative director Antonio Vaccarello began the show with images of the strong Laurent woman. Tuxedo suits in anthracite, terracotta, black and plum tones, with wide trousers and double-breasted jackets, were a tribute to the legendary Le Smoking , created by Yves in 1966. Its secret was that it was tailored to the female figure: the shape and curve of the collar were more refined, the waistline of the blouse was narrowed to emphasize the shape of the body, and the trousers were cut to lengthen the legs. As a result, the YSL women looked sexy, but at the same time severe.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
At first glance, it is clear that Vaccarello’s power women repeat the style of Yves Saint Laurent himself, right down to the massive glasses. Insider information: the morning after the collection was shown, the brand’s office received a record number of pre-orders for the pantsuit that Bella Hadid wore on the catwalk.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
Tuxedos were complemented by voluminous trench coats, gold brocade raincoats, oversized leather and satin bomber jackets, ties and massive gold bracelets.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
The next series of looks was a real tribute to Loulou de la Falaise, one of Saint Laurent’s closest creative collaborators. They were both captivated by the history and culture of Morocco and loved spending time in Marrakech, where Yves bought a small villa.
“This city taught me about color. On every corner in Marrakech you come across these stunningly colorful groups of men and women, standing out from the crowd in their pink, blue, green and purple caftans. They look like paintings and remind me of Delacroix’s sketches, but in reality they are simply improvisations of life.”
Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech
The designer’s love for Morocco was embodied in fluttering dresses made of fine boho-style gossamer that cascaded to the floor; shoes decorated with precious stones; national jewelry – massive beads in several rows, jingling bracelets and chain necklaces. Vaccarello complemented all this splendor with leather bomber jackets.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
Moving on, Anthony offers soft damask pajamas as an alternative to the business suit, gradually weaving in the Indian and Chinese collections. Saint Laurent could be seen working in a similar outfit of a long belted tunic over wide trousers at his villa in Marrakech.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
The culmination of the show was a series of brocade-lace evening looks made up of jackets with wide shoulders, flowing transparent blouses and narrow short skirts, which embodied all the luxury and multi-color of the East: the designer mixes raspberry with gold and ochre, serves grassy green with azure and violet, and fuchsia with turquoise and sea wave.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
On a personal note, I would like to add that it is becoming increasingly difficult to recognize the signature style of designers. The conformism that is characteristic of today’s fashion is a guarantee of stability and “security” for brands. It is safe to say that Vaccarello showed this principle the door, and his collection was undoubtedly from Yves Saint Laurent. Bravo, maestro!
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