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Rabanne creative director Julien Dossena continues to be creative and surprising. In the spring 2025 collection, the emphasis was on working with prints and metallic surfaces, which Dossena is particularly good at.
The designer layered jackets (sometimes two) and parkas over miniskirts and shirts, some of which were trimmed with silver foil. Sometimes this layering was accompanied by floral prints and stripes of varying thickness, color and direction.
Rabanne Spring 2025
The foil technique gave the clothes a cosmic feel, in keeping with the vision of brand founder Paco Rabanne in the 1960s. Knitted sweaters, dresses with lace inserts, tank tops, loincloths and boots shimmered with metal.
Rabanne Spring 2025
Weightless, transparent mesh was covered in gold and silver embroidery, sparkling tops of long dresses were made of geometric inserts connected by metal chains, and mini dresses and jacket lapels were embroidered with tiny glittering discs.
Rabanne Spring 2025
Dossena assembles chainmail dresses, covers boots and bags with rings, and creates gold and silver column dresses that look like they were cast from a single piece of metal.
Rabanne Spring 2025
But the main characters of the collection were three bags, made in the style of the 1969 Rabanne bag from new modern materials. One of them is made of fired white ceramics, another of Murano glass, and the third, which has already been officially recognized as the most expensive in the world, is made of 18-karat gold coins by metal master Arthus Bertrand. Dossena said that this bag (worth 250 thousand euros) is an homage to the 1968 Paco Rabanne gold and diamond dress for the singer and actress Françoise Hardy. Each of them was matched with a mini dress in the same tone, and weightless pieces of gold leaf flew behind the gold dress.
Rabanne Spring 2025
However, what caught my eye in this collection were the more utilitarian pieces than the gold handbag. Rabanne models wore pumps wrapped in plastic, like clear galoshes, and bags in clear plastic cases. Raincoats for bags and shoes, which would come in handy in case of bad weather.
Rabanne Spring 2025
At the preview, Dossena said, “I love to constantly experiment, explore materials and try to push the boundaries, because that’s what the house is all about.” And it’s very interesting to watch the designer at work and how he outdoes himself season after season and leads the brand to long-forgotten success.
Julien Dossena
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