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Creative director Ian Griffiths, who has been with Max Mara since 1987 (!), thought about the connection between science and art.
“Why do designers so often neglect science? After all, there is such a clear parallel between what they do and what scientists do: both make order out of chaos.”
This time, the designer was inspired by Hypatia of Alexandria, a philosopher, mathematician, astronomer and mechanic of late antiquity. According to Griffiths, he took Hypatia’s parabolas and Pythagorean geometry and then developed a design formula that formed the basis of the collection. The result was impressive – a mathematically verified and therefore visually impeccable collection appeared before the audience.
Max Mara Spring 2025
An open-shoulder knit dress with a round neckline in the shape of a parabola at the waist, the same parabola on a cropped blouse, strict geometric silhouettes with filigree-precise proportions – the spirit of magic literally hovered over the catwalk: “Who said there is no secret in mathematics?”
Max Mara Spring 2025
The sweeping lines and inclined planes not only emphasized the silhouette, but also repeated the geometry of the figure of its owner. This looked especially impressive on kimono jackets.
Max Mara Spring 2025
The thoughtful and mathematically verified folds and creases were reminiscent of origami, while the crushed silk, on the contrary, had a certain elemental and expressive feel – it evoked an association with crumpled sheets of paper in a mathematician’s wastebasket.
Max Mara Spring 2025
The color palette was as simple as it was elegantly noble: dark chocolate, baked milk, anthracite, indigo, impeccable white, formal black and the brand’s signature camel.
Max Mara Spring 2025
I noticed interesting details of the outerwear: zippers along the shoulder line, an asymmetrical collar, buttoned on one side, and transformer sleeves.
Max Mara Spring 2025
The print only appeared once, but it was so bright that it drew applause.
Max Mara Spring 2025
As well as the last five very fitted looks of dresses and floor-length skirts.
Max Mara Spring 2025
I don’t know how Griffiths has managed to consistently produce commercial collections for 37 years now that are exceptionally neutral, restrained and even ascetic. Maybe this time it was empirical vanity, calculated with the help of clever mathematical formulas?
Collection details.
Max Mara Spring 2025
I hope you enjoyed reading my review.