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It was the first collection from the Dries Van Noten team that Dries himself had not worked on. The designer left the runway after his final menswear show in June, but Van Noten’s departure was fundamentally different. The great houses that change hands were established decades ago (more than a century ago, in Chanel ’s case ); new creative directors come in to update the legacy, not, as in this case, replace a living founder. And so, as the models walked the runway, the question in the eyes of the audience was: What has changed?
The brand’s fairly young team managed to collect in the premiere collection everything that clients love about Dries: rich colors, complex textures, intricate embroidery.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
It is only fair that the DVN team went down the archival route, especially with regard to the autumn 1997 collection, which was unique in its precious embroideries, floral arrangements, combination of Eastern and Western clothing styles and became fundamental for the designer’s further work.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
The difference from the collections of Dries himself was the use of elements of underwear: variations of a lace crop top with a long vest made of emerald-colored crushed fabric, with a trench coat, with a burgundy-colored blouse, with an oversized jacket; silk shorts with lace in a duet with a jacquard jacket; a silk romper with a voluminous bomber jacket.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
As an adherent of minimalism, I was attracted by monochrome images, especially in warm beige and chocolate shades. Their laconism was perfectly diluted with bags and shoes made of python skin.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
I noticed narrow skirts made of printed silk with a decorative belt similar to an obi for a kimono; translucent raincoats with a large animalistic or floral print; as well as an interesting combination of the last two in one look.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
The combination of textures, prints and colours was luxurious (as always with Dries): red-violet, bottle and ochre floral motifs intersected with animal prints, silk and jacquard with intricate embroidery for the wow effect were again enhanced by accessories made of python. Models carried capacious leather shoppers in their hands, and the looks were complemented by large and very large bracelets, earrings and necklaces.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
Bags and shoes.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
More details.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2025
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