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Although haute couture collections do not set mass trends, they are worth watching for lovers of beauty. After all, Haute Couture Week is, first of all, a unique opportunity to admire real works of art by tailors, jewelers, embroiderers and paruriers (producers of Haute Couture accessories ). Moreover, designers have recently been adapting stylistic techniques from Ready-To-Wear collections to couture and, conversely, identifying trends that can increasingly be found in everyday life.
In this review I will tell you about the 7 most striking High Fashion collections of the spring-summer 2025 season.
Armani Private
The legend of the fashion industry, 90-year-old Giorgio Armani, continues to amaze us with his energy. For the half-century anniversary of the Giorgio Armani empire and the 20th anniversary of the Armani Privè couture line, the maestro opened the luxurious Palazzo Armani hotel in Paris , where the anniversary couture show was held.
Giorgio Armani
The 93-look collection, dubbed Lumières (French for “light”), shone and gleamed on everything from fluid silk and gemstone buttons to the models’ eyes, which were meant to radiate happiness at Armani’s shows.
Giorgio Armani Spring 2025 Couture
Christian Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri has given everyone a surprise this season: the champion of women’s rights and freedoms, who for the sake of convenience replaced corsets with tank tops and bodysuits last couture season, now suddenly shackled her figure in corsets, on which she put on bulky crinolines. However, Chiuri herself presents this as a reference to the children’s images of the Victorian era: “I have been obsessed with the history of fashion for the past months.”
Maria Grazia Chiuri
The collection, full of “joy, dreams and playfulness,” was inspired by Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, the trapezoid silhouette Yves Saint Laurent once created for Dior, and the works of surrealist artists Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning. The abundance of crinolines and pannier skirts was diluted with strict tuxedos, lace pantaloons and light dresses with ribbons, flowers and frills.
Christian Dior Spring 2025 Couture
Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry, inspired by the flight of Icarus, tried to surpass himself and create a collection in which modernity has a strong relationship with heritage. And the heritage of not only Elsa Schiaparelli, but also other great designers – from Balenciaga and McQueen to Azzedine Alaïa.
Daniel Roseberry
Thus, the tight-fitting corset jacket in flowers with a deep neckline was a reference to the Schiap jacket of the 30s, and the evening dresses with a draped skirt – to her evening dresses of the 40s. The dress with a tulle skirt and a wavy peplum sent us to the archives of Cristobal Balenciaga of the 50s, and the relief back of the black dress-jacket – to the works of Azzedine Alaïa.
In addition, the brand’s team developed a unique production technology, thanks to which the outfits looked like real sculptures.
Schiaparelli Spring 2025 Couture
Valentino
As a designer who is constantly bursting with ideas and who feels cramped within the framework of ready-to-wear collections, Alessandro Michele did not miss his chance and in his debut couture collection he fully demonstrated his passion for maximalism and theatrical costume.
Alessanro Michele
And although, according to the designer, he carefully researched the archives and legacy of Valentino Garavani, it was his own, Michele’s, features that came to the fore: esoteric and circus motifs, knightly armor, wrestling masks embroidered with beads, tapestries, feather headdresses and gorger collars.
What remains of Valentino ? The brand’s traditional bows, ruffles, cascades, frills, oriental patterns from the advertising campaigns of the 1960s-1980s, and Garavani’s own favorite red and polka dots.
Valentino Spring 2025 Couture
The shoes deserve a separate comment – each pair can be inserted into a golden baroque frame with stucco and hung in the best museums of the world. Shoes and lace tights embroidered with pearls, precious stones, gold threads – this is beauty that takes your breath away.
Valentino Spring 2025 Couture
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ludovic de Saint-Sernin became the eighth and youngest designer to be invited to the house of JPG for a single season. The collection, inspired by a music video of the duo Seal and Mylène Farmer drifting on a raft on the sea and a ship-shaped headdress from the JPG show in 1997, was called Le Naufrage , which means “Shipwreck” in French.
Still from the video
The mermaids and other characters from Gaultier’s universe, seemingly fresh out of the water, testified to de Saint-Sernin’s fertile imagination. They sauntered down the runway in sea-green dresses, laced off-the-shoulder corsets, mermaid-tail skirts, bodices with sea motifs, and feathered gowns.
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2025 Couture
Alexandre Vauthier
Alexandre Vauthier showed perhaps the most utilitarian collection that could be useful in an everyday wardrobe: “For me, clothes should be very thoughtful, very discreet, ultra-elegant and Parisian.”
Alexander Vauthier
The collection showed traces of Vauthier’s work in the fashion studios of Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier. A beige bustier jumpsuit, asymmetrical black dresses, cashmere capes and a velvet floor-length skirt all looked very Parisian.
Alexandre Vauthier Spring 2025 Couture
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli makes no secret of his deep love for Morocco, and it’s not just because his life partner is from there. He adores everything about the country, from its style to its refined, sensual atmosphere.
Giambattista Valli
“I called this collection Les Jardins de la Ménara (The Gardens of Menara). It is a place of meditative reflection, where I often took long walks. It brought peace to my mind, which my soul needs more than ever today.”
Models walked the runway, which was carpeted with Moroccan carpets, wearing full silk taffeta ball skirts, tiered chiffon dresses with pale petals, luxurious brocade cape coats embroidered with roses, column dresses in bright icy shades and silk flowers cascading from bodices.
Giambattista Valli Spring 2025 Couture
Chanel
Mathieu Blasi is about to take over as creative director of Chanel , but for now the collection, dedicated to the 110th anniversary of the Haute Couture line , has become the work of the brand’s team.
In anticipation of a major turn in the history of the house, the creative team started talking about “constant renewal and rethinking of timeless charm.” The collection included lighter and reimagined tweed suits for a younger audience, silk shirt dresses to the floor, voluminous taffeta capes and chiffon dresses assembled from flounces and ruffles. The traditional bride’s dress at the end of the show made the finale optimistic and life-affirming.
Chanel Spring 2025 Couture
Stay tuned! Ahead of you are reviews of the best collections from the Fashion Weeks of the four main capitals!
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