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Burberry creative director Daniel Lee chose London’s National Theatre as the venue for the new collection because its brutalist architecture harmonized with the blue installation by young British artist Gary Hume. But this harmony was not the only reason for such a deliberately conservative choice. Alas, the brand’s sales are falling, Lee is under fire, and he has had to abandon the tents, duck hats and hand warmers that were worn at the fall collectionStorm flaps, epaulettes and a check, of which there was surprisingly little, were responsible for the brand’s DNA. in favor of pragmatism.
Lee’s signature is deconstruction, and it was an asymmetrical dress with slits and unexpected details that was one of the first to open the show.
Burberry Spring 2025
The storm flap, epaulettes and the surprisingly small amount of check were in keeping with the brand’s DNA.
Burberry Spring 2025
In this collection, the designer gave preference to stripes, which decorated both accessories (for example, scarves) and entire looks.
Burberry Spring 2025
The collection’s current street style was supported by fur collars on trench coats and parkas, which, upon closer inspection, turned out to be feathers; caped tops; ultra-fashionable Bermuda shorts and dresses with sequin fringe, stylized with rough parkas (my favorite technique in the collection).
Burberry Spring 2025
Femininity was provided by flowing floor-length skirts, a few and very ascetic floral prints and cocktail dresses in rhinestones and sequins. In general, the entire collection was woven from contrasts, like England itself.
Burberry Spring 2025