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Alaïa’s spring 2025 show took place at the Guggenheim Museum in New York, an iconic building designed by American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. It should be noted that this building has never hosted a fashion show before.
The Guggenheim served not just as a location, but as a real source of inspiration – “the curves of the Alaïa echoed the architecture of the museum.”
“I thought it would be quite beautiful to bring the essence of American fashion into the collection – effortless and luxurious in its own way,” said the brand’s creative director Peter Mullier.
Guggenheim Museum in New York
So there were combed sheepskin coats in ivory, mint and salmon pink, and draped spiral dresses that snapped onto the body like a bracelet. The secret was that they were constructed using techniques used in jewelry making.
Alaia Spring 2025
One of Azzedine Alaïa’s favorite designers was Charles James, whose mathematical approach to modeling earned him the nickname “Einstein of haute couture.” It was from here that the collection included puffy down jackets and complex, sculptural skirts.
Alaia Spring 2025
Bandeau tops and bloomers were inspired by the 1970s knitwear of American designer Roy Holsten (Roy is considered the first minimalist, and his designs are often deceptively modest), while double-hooded coats and wide capes were a nod to 1950s and 1960s French-American couturier Pauline Trigère.
Alaia Spring 2025
A photograph of ball gowns by the most elegant couturier of the 20th century, Charles James, taken by Cecil Beaton in 1948 for Vogue magazine, served as the starting point for the creation of voluminous sports suits in the finest pastel taffeta.
Photo by Cecil Beaton, Vogue 1948
Alaia Spring 2025
At the preview, Peter Mullier said: “I thought it would be very beautiful to embody in the collection the essence of American fashion, which is a sense of lightness and luxury, different from what we know in Europe. I would not have done this show in Paris.”
It was a clever move from the designer, who seemed to have thought of every little detail. Even the chains hanging from the earrings looked like wired headphones from afar, which grounded the looks in the streets of New York.
Alaia Spring 2025
Peter Mulliez’s name is mentioned in endless talk about the open position at Chanel , he is one of the few candidates for this position. But personally, I hope he will not rush to leave, because I like his Alaïa so much.
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