Share This Article
Irishman Sean McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen last season was met with much scepticism. He was an untested frontman, replacing the much-loved Sarah Burton, who had been Lee Alexander McQueen’s right-hand woman and had run the house on her own for more than a decade.
The second show, Spring 2025, which took place on the left bank of the Seine, at the École des Beaux- Arts , was, according to critics, much more convincing, and the collection turned out to be more coherent and commercially profitable.
Sean McGirr
It all started with tailoring : the show opened with a trouser suit and a jacket dress, the lapels of which were rolled up on the chest, as if to protect against a sudden London downpour or, perhaps, from attacks from critics.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
McGirr said he began by studying Lee McQueen’s own sketches, which are kept in the house’s archives.
“You know, his handwriting actually had an S-curve, so I thought about how to interpret it.”
This is how the silhouette with rolled lapels was born. He also experimented with the iconic McQueen Bumster pants , cutting mid-rise skirts and pants with a horizontal mesh insert about 2-3 centimeters below the waist.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
The same insert, trimmed with a frill of weightless chiffon, was built into the shoulder line of a strict trench coat.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
Another inspiration for the designer was McQueen’s second show, Banshee , for autumn/winter 1994, in which Lee spoke about his Celtic heritage and the Irish bedtime stories his mother told him.
“Banshee is rooted in McQueen history, but it’s also a story I grew up with, so it feels deeply personal to me,” added the creative director, who heard the same tales from his mother.
Hence the collection’s tiered dresses, in particular the black one, onto which the thorn branches from the frock coat from McQueen’s graduation collection were transferred.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
Impeccable tailoring was evident in coats with seams made in such a way that they had a pattern of tailor’s basting; in large snow-white collars resembling a calla flower; in filigree-cut dresses and blouses made of delicate silk and in a series of brutal leather items.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
This season, the designer paid much more attention to the red carpet appearances. Thus, McQueen’s “Birds” were transformed into corsets, skirts and dresses with a stand-up collar, covered in feathers; jackets were assembled from gold glass beads; translucent dresses were woven from beaded fringe; and an outfit made of silver chains repeating the lines of the body caused the heart to beat.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
Collection details.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2025
If these designs made your heart skip a beat, pass the love and share this article. Every ❤️ is like a digital high-five—seriously, you make this all worth it. Want first dibs on the next wave of style? Our newsletter delivers the glam right to your inbox. Click, subscribe, and stay fabulous.